Other Pests

A complete A–Z catalog of 45 common garden, greenhouse, field and household pests that don’t have their own dedicated page on this site. From ants and armyworms through cucumber beetles, Japanese beetles, leafhoppers, Mexican bean beetles, squash bugs, tarnished plant bugs and wireworms. Each entry covers identification cues, life-cycle details and the most effective biological, physical and low-impact controls available. Use the tabs below to jump to a letter range.

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A–D 16 pests E–H 6 pests I–M 8 pests N–Q 2 pests R–Z 13 pests

A

3 entries

Ants

In homes, certain ant species are real problems. Carpenter ants — though not wood-eaters — tunnel galleries through structural wood and can turn an otherwise usable house into an unsafe structure by weakening wooden members. Many sugar-eating ants forage in kitchens and bathrooms searching for food and can spread harmful bacteria; protein-eating ants may bite, and southern fire ants are notoriously painful. In greenhouses, ants “farm” Homopteran pests — aphids, whiteflies, mealybugs and soft-scale insects — for their sugary honeydew, actively protecting them from predacious and parasitic biocontrol agents and even physically spreading them between plants as the host plants weaken or honeydew demand grows. Control: boric-acid baits (gels, pastes, powders or liquid feeding stations) are the safest non-chemical option — designed to take out the colony at its source as the bait is carried back to the queen and brood. Physical barriers like diatomaceous earth or caulked entry points stop their passage.

Apple Maggots

If you grow apples, apple maggots are part of your life — period. Spraying is how most apple growers cope. Truly chemical-free apple production is extremely difficult; expect a cider- and apple by-product-heavy operation, with good unblemished picking apples fewer and further between and many “drops.” Adults are 6-8 mm flies with clear, patterned wings; they lay eggs in skin punctures and the larvae tunnel through the fruit’s meat until the apples drop, then leave the fruit to pupate in the soil. Control: red-sphere sticky traps coated with a sticky substance — conventional growers place a few for monitoring; organic growers place many for monitoring AND mass-trapping. Other tools: kaolin clay (Surround) sprays during peak flight, garlic sprays, neem-based repellents (applied heavily) and apple maggot control bags. Promptly pick up and destroy dropped fruit before larvae exit. Parasitic nematodes hit the soil-stage pupae; multiple applications are needed since pupae can stay in the soil more than one season. Cover crops around trees shelter predatory ground beetles. Spinosad is the most effective organic-approved foliar option.

Armyworms

Larvae of unremarkable grayish-brown moths about 3 cm in size, distinguished by a white dot on each wing — but they’re nocturnal and unlikely to be seen. The larvae grow to 4 cm with green, brown and whitish lengthwise stripes; also nocturnal, so you won’t catch them chowing — but damage is unmistakable. Feeding hits leaves, stems, roots, tubers and even fruiting bodies. Specific species favor specific crops (beets are a common target). Control: parasitic nematodes — armyworms overwinter as larvae or pupae depending on species, so early-to-late spring or late summer to early fall is best (or anytime larvae are found in or near the soil). Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) Kurstaki sprayed at night nails them when they venture out to feed on upper plant parts. Trichogramma egg parasitoids. Row covers exclude egg-laying adults.

B

2 entries

Bagworms

Two-centimeter clear-winged black moths mate with wingless females, which lay eggs on shrubs and trees in distinctive “bags” built from leaves or pine needles. Larvae hatch, venture forth feeding as they go, and build new bags of their own to settle in and complete metamorphosis — growing to about 2 cm and enlarging the bags as they age. Control: Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) Kurstaki is highly effective if applied early in the season, before larvae have built mature bags. The most reliable backstop is physical removal — cut the silk securing each bag and destroy it (leaving silk on the twig can girdle it). Commercially available pheromone/sex traps capture late-season flying males.

Black Vine Weevils

Major pests of many ornamental nursery crops; occasionally greenhouse crops. Adult feeding causes a distinctive U-shaped notching of leaves; the soil-dwelling larvae feed on roots, where most damage occurs. The fairly tough-looking 9 mm adults hide during the day in debris and leaf litter — seldom seen, but feeding damage betrays them. Control: parasitic (entomopathogenic) nematodes — especially Heterorhabditis bacteriophora — control the larval and pupal stages effectively; a university trial rated nematodes among the best controls available, beating the big-gun chemicals. Sticky-side-up traps on the ground and designed harborages quickly uncoverable during the day help with adult scouting in greenhouses.

C

11 entries

Cabbage Maggots

Inconspicuous fly-looking adults buzz around brassica and cole crops (cabbage-family plants) and lay eggs in the soil at plant bases in the spring and beyond. White larvae grow to 7 mm — the same size they’ll be as adults — and tunnel into the roots, causing extensive physical damage and entry points for root rots. Control: row covers work but may keep things too hot for cole crops (they prefer cooler), AND if pupae are already in the soil the cover traps emerging flies. Parasitic nematodes applied to the soil at plant bases hit the larvae effectively. Black plastic sheeting or other opaque ground covers around plants (plants grow through slits) stop egg-laying females and retain soil moisture. Capsicum-pepper wax or garlic sprays applied near soil may deter adults. Diatomaceous-earth collars at the soil-stem interface help.

Carrot Beetles

Unusually for beetles, it’s the adults that do the worst damage to carrots — the large 15 mm red-brown adults tunnel into carrot roots and other crops. The C-shaped larval grubs grow to 25 mm in the soil but feed mostly on grasses rather than carrots. Control: parasitic nematodes are a viable means of control as long as timing is right and you focus on a wide-ranging area around the carrot plot — including adjacent grass and leafy debris.

Carrot Rust Flies

Slender 7 mm redheaded flies lay eggs in the soil near carrot plants. The white maggots feed on root hairs and the prized tap root — causing physical damage and creating entry points for root rots. Control: row covers protect plants from egg-laying adults (assuming no flies emerged from under the cover from prior plantings). Parasitic nematodes kill the soil-dwelling larvae effectively. Capsicum-wax and garlic sprays may deter adults; rotate away from previous carrot plantings.

Carrot Weevils

Yet another carrot pest. These 6 mm brown weevils follow the same pattern as the other carrot specialists: adults lay eggs, immature stages eat the roots. Control: the same playbook as carrot rust flies — parasitic nematodes against the larvae, row covers against the adults, and plastic sheeting or mulches to seal soil-laid eggs out of the system.

Chafers

European, masked, rose and other chafers are familiar lawn and garden beetles — collectively, members of a particular family. Like most pestiferous beetles, they damage plants in both adult and larval forms (specific size and diet depend on which type of chafer). The C-shaped whitish grubs in turf can attract mole infestations — the best mole control is grub control. Control: chafers are far more vulnerable as larvae than as adults; adults can be hand-picked or excluded with floating row covers, but parasitic nematodes against grubs yield far better results. Milky spore (Bacillus popilliae) provides long-term suppression of Popillia-related species. Azadirachtin (the active in neem-based products) gives additional control.

Chinch Bugs

Narrow black-and-white shield-shaped true bugs that weave through lawn thatch, sometimes covered in a white powdery bloom, growing to 6 mm. They attack certain grasses lacking endophytes and cause yellow patches and dieback. Control: the most practical and durable answer is to plant endophyte-containing turfgrasses — your seedsman will know which cultivars carry the trait (it’s often labeled “endophytic” on the bag). Other forms of control are typically too impractical for lawn-scale application.

Colorado Potato Beetles

Distinctively striped yellow-and-black beetles over 1 cm long, widely known in potato country — and also feed on tomatoes. Adults and the orange larvae are big feeders, causing tremendous damage from ragged holes to complete defoliation; considered major pests in some areas. Control: Spinosad formulations are the most popular organic option. Spined soldier bugs (Podisus maculiventris) prey on the larvae and are commercially available. Some growers report ladybugs feeding on the eggs. Hand-picking adults and crushing egg clusters on leaf undersides is feasible in small plantings.

Corn Earworms

Larvae of these migratory moths can be very damaging to corn — adult moths make lengthy annual northerly migrations which, when monitored with pheromone traps, give growers advance warning. Aside from toxic sprays, there is nothing that prevents arriving moths from laying eggs. The pale tan, dark-striped larvae grow to 5 cm, consume corn silks, then follow them into the husks to feed on the kernels, expelling visible frass as they go — making their presence obvious. Damage is largely cosmetic and can be cut away, but consumers are picky. Control: Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) Kurstaki applied to silks at emergence offers limited control. Trichogramma egg parasitoids. Mineral-oil droplets at the silk channel as a barrier. Parasitic nematodes injected between husk and ear can work but isn’t realistic except in the smallest, earliest outbreaks.

Cucumber Beetles

1 cm beetles in two flavors: striped (yellow with black stripes) and spotted (yellow with black spots). Unlike many beetles, the larvae are found on foliage rather than in the soil — though pupation does occur underground. Larvae and adults chew ragged feeding holes. Control: spined soldier bugs (Podisus maculiventris) can impact larvae on foliage; parasitic nematodes hit the soil-stage pupae. Yellow sticky traps and trap crops (Blue Hubbard squash) help with adults. The bigger long-term concern is bacterial wilt, which cucumber beetles vector — controlling them controls the disease.

Curculios

Grayish, black 1 cm weevils — serious candidates for the World’s Ugliest Bug award — and their damage to plums and apples is equally unappealing. Adults feed on leaves, buds and flower petals (sometimes causing fruit deformity), then lay eggs in crescent-shaped wounds they cut with their pointed weevilish mouthparts. Larvae feed from within, causing fruit to rot on the stem, develop grotesque deformities and drop. Control: curculios defy most non-chemical options. Repellent botanicals — garlic, capsicum-pepper or neem formulations — can help. Rapid pickup and destruction of dropped fruit interrupts the cycle. Kaolin clay (Surround) provides effective physical interference.

Cutworms

Previously discussed on the soil pests page, cutworms deserve a second mention here. They are large (up to 5 cm) larvae of several moth species. They live near the bases of host plants, storing energy for pupation, and emerge to the soil surface at night to wrap around the stems of tender new seedlings and girdle them. Gardeners typically find the damage the next morning — plants lying on their sides. Control: azadirachtin (the active in neem-based products) helps; parasitic nematodes are an excellent biological option. Cardboard collars or cans around individual seedling stems give reliable physical protection.

E

1 entry

European Corn Borers

As the name implies, mostly pests of corn. The pestiferous stage is the larva: adults lay eggs on plants and the resulting tan larvae grow to 3 cm and burrow into ears and stems, expelling frass as they go. Stem feeding can cause plant collapse; ear feeding makes corn unsightly. Damaged portions can be cut away but many buyers won’t accept tainted corn. Control: granular Bacillus thuringiensis Kurstaki (Bt) applied to the whorl, if timed correctly, effectively controls these pests. Pair Bt with Trichogramma brassicae moth-egg parasitoids and perform proper season-end cleanup and disposal of affected plants. Azadirachtin (neem) gives additional control. Parasitic nematodes can be injected in the bored holes, but only viable in the smallest, earliest outbreaks.

F

3 entries

Filth-Breeding Flies

As the name implies, these flies use garbage, feces or manures, dead animals and other “filth” for reproduction. They lay eggs in those substrates, and the larvae (maggots) thrive there. Adults visit homes, farms, restrooms, food-prep areas and picnics — spreading bacteria via their sponge-tube mouthparts; known disease vectors. Control: source reduction is the foundation — clean up, compost or haul off the filth. Trapping is essential for flies arriving from elsewhere — many designs available, all with stinky bait (prepared, included, or self-made). Commercial fly pupae parasitoids — Muscidifurax raptor, M. raptorellus, M. zaraptor, Spalangia cameroni, S. endius — are typically supplied as a mixture of species, released in series throughout the fly season. Parasitic nematodes work against larval maggots. New probiotic products applied to manure eliminate fly-attracting odors and reduce adult influx. Insect screens at openings prevent adult entry.

Fleas

Bloodsuckers that prey on mammals — most dogs, cats, and many pet owners. They get into homes and breed in lawns. Mighty big pests for being such little ‘uns. Control: keeping fleas off your pet is the key to keeping them out of your home — consult a veterinarian for pet-safe options. Indoors and outdoors, two things work very well: diatomaceous earth (DE) sprinkled on carpets and swept into the fibers kills fleas and other household pests effectively. Outdoors, parasitic nematodes (plain-Jane Steinernema carpocapsae) applied to lawns and yards reliably solve outdoor flea problems — feedback has been truly outstanding. Killing them at the source keeps them off your pet (if it stays in the yard) and out of your home.

Flea Beetles

Small beetles (2-3 mm depending on species), blue to black and shiny — some metallic — that hop like fleas. Alone they do minute damage; in large numbers their damage resembles birdshot. Tiny larval and pupal forms develop in soil adjacent to green and cole crops; adults move from overwintering places in spring, feed on plants and lay eggs near them (larvae then feed on roots). Control: parasitic nematodes target larvae and pupae; row covers exclude adults early in the season. Trap crops (radish near brassicas) draw adult feeding away from the cash crop. Insecticidal soap when timing is right knocks down moving-in adults. Sticky cards on the soil surface trap some adults.

G

2 entries

Grasshoppers

Large 2-5 cm yellow-tan to green insects that can devastate grains, grasses and corn — particularly across western U.S. open-field production. They chew ragged holes in leaves and, in sufficient numbers, can defoliate entire plants or destroy whole fields. Eggs are laid in dry, sandy soils, which limits parasitic-nematode effectiveness (nematodes need moisture for hunting and survival). Control: Nosema locustae bran-flake baits are an inexpensive microbial standard for large acreage — the pathogen causes disfigurement and death — but timing is critical: grasshoppers must consume the bait at the 2nd to 3rd instar (immature) stage to be infected. Neem-based sprays also work in the same window — their active ingredient, azadirachtin, is an insect-growth regulator (IGR) that prevents immature stages from developing into adults.

Gypsy Moths

The larvae of these moths have been really bad — they eat trees. Many species fall prey to these smoke-colored to brownish defoliating caterpillars (now often called “spongy moths”), with a particular preference for oak. Eggs sit in felt-like tan patches firmly attached to tree trunks; larvae grow to about 5 cm, pupate, and emerge as adults to lay before season’s end. Two types: the Asian species — females can fly, so introductions could become widespread fast — and the European species (flightless females), the well-known spreading pest in the eastern US. European larvae hang from limbs on silken threads, lowering themselves and “ballooning” on wind gusts to new ground. These moths run in cycles. Control: Bacillus thuringiensis Kurstaki (Bt) sprays at early instars, tree-banding (Tanglefoot-type sticky bands on trunks) and physical destruction of egg masses within reach during dormancy. Pheromone disruption at large scale.

I

1 entry

Iris Borers

Uncommon but worth knowing. The brown-yellow parent moths lay eggs on old iris leaves in fall. Eggs hatch in spring as pink worms with a tan dorsal stripe and rows of black side dots, growing to 5 cm as they tunnel deeper into leaf sheaths and into the crown/rhizome — where most damage occurs — before dropping to the soil to pupate. Control: remove and destroy dead plant material before snowfall, apply parasitic nematodes heavily during and immediately after the growing season. Pull rhizomes in the fall and dip them in a sulfur fungicide solution to help control the rots these pests cause; inspect rhizomes during division for tunneling and frass.

J

2 entries

Japanese Beetles

Just over 1 cm long but as destructive as pests twice their size. Their bronze-with-metallic-green coloration is actually stunning — the damage isn’t. Mid-to-late summer they can be found on many plants; particularly fond of beans and roses, where they’re spotted feeding and mating stacked two-to-three deep. They skeletonize leaves and can cause complete defoliation. The off-white C-shaped grubs damage lawn roots, killing patches of turf, and can attract mole infestations (best mole control is grub control). Control: adult beetles are nearly impossible to control non-conventionally — hand-pick at dawn (sluggish in cool air) into soapy water; cover prize plants with row covers. Pheromone traps draw MORE beetles than they catch and lure both sexes — can worsen problems if placed within the crop. Best approach: target the grub stage. Two products well-suited to grubs: milky spore disease (Bacillus popilliae) for long-term suppression, and parasitic nematodes specifically the Heterorhabditis bacteriophora species for faster grub control.

June Beetles

Big brown beetles (up to 3 cm) that smack against screen doors on hot summer nights. Adults chew leaves of many plants, but the large white C-shaped grubs are the more destructive stage — chewing lawn roots and killing patches of turf. They also feed on roots of corn, potatoes, strawberries and other vegetables and fruits. Their presence often signals a coming mole invasion (best mole control is grub control). Control: as with Japanese beetles, target the grubs — parasitic nematodes, specifically the Heterorhabditis bacteriophora species, applied to moist soil. Cover prize plants with row covers to keep migrating adults at bay.

L

3 entries

Lace Bugs

Very unusual in appearance with their white, lacy wings and squared hourglass shape, 5-7 mm long. Known pests of a wide variety of trees, shrubs, vegetables and flowers; suck sap from leaf undersides and cause speckling and chlorotic leaves. Control: based on outdoor-setting feedback, insidious flower bug (Orius insidiosus) is quite capable of controlling lace bugs — it probes the egg and nymphal stages with its sharpened straw-like mouthpart. Few targeted sprays exist for lace bugs; insecticidal soap or horticultural oil applied to leaf undersides can knock down nymphs.

Leafhoppers

Somewhat triangular-shaped insects, 4 mm to 1 cm, sometimes with striking colors — light green, purple, blue or red stripes. They can be incredible pests when numbers are large (often the case in gardens and outdoor settings). Leafhoppers suck plant sap and secrete a toxin as they feed — combined causes leaf deformities, stunted tip growth and scorching. Control: few sprays carry leafhoppers on the label, but insecticidal soap does — important for commercial growers in label-strict states. Biocontrol agents are few: spined soldier bugs (Podisus maculiventris) — commercially available with attractors — provide one solution (still expensive). Insidious flower bugs (Orius insidiosus) also help. Row covers exclude adults from young plantings; reflective mulches deter colonization.

Leafrollers

Moths whose eggs hatch into typically destructive larvae. The 2 cm brass-colored adults lay eggs on branch tips and leaves; larvae feed where they hatched, then after a month pupate inside cocoon-like shelters they build themselves — rolling leaves lengthwise with their webbing (some species overwinter as pre-pupae tucked into tree bark). Control: Trichogramma spp. parasitic wasps attack the eggs during late spring through early summer. Physical removal of egg masses helps. Larvae are treated with Bacillus thuringiensis Kurstaki (Bt) or spinosad while feeding. Physically squashing the larvae in their leaf-rolled cocoons works in small plantings. Pheromone disruption is effective on orchard scales.

M

2 entries

Mexican Bean Beetles

Bad bugs that resemble good bugs — these bean-skeletonizing beetles look very similar to ladybugs. They’re more orange, with smaller spots arranged in side-to-side rows. About 7 mm as adults and similarly sized as the spiky orange larvae. They feed on most leguminous crops, particularly beans. Few non-toxic sprays stop them (some natural botanicals are toxic). Control: two commercially produced biocontrols are labeled for this pest: spined soldier bugs (Podisus maculiventris) feed on eggs and larvae, and Pediobius foveolatus — a parasitic mini-wasp — very effectively parasitizes the larvae. Timing for a first-generation kill is critical for successful parasitoid programs.

Mosquitoes

Bloodsucking flies infamous as disease vectors — yellow fever, malaria, West Nile, Zika and more. Eliminating mosquitoes entirely is impractical without destroying their breeding habitat. Control: three Green-Methods levers. (1) Source reduction — eliminate standing water in containers, gutters, tire piles, vernal pools and unused kiddie pools. (2) Encourage natural enemies — dragonflies (planting diversity attracts them) and bats (commercially available bat houses; a single bat eats roughly 300-500 insects per night). (3) BTI (Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis) — positively buoyant doughnut-shaped briquettes — aggressively destroy larvae suspended at the water’s surface; the larvae consume the bacteria and quickly die. Completely innocuous to fish, mammals and birds. Apply to ornamental ponds, rain barrels and other standing water that can’t be drained. A garlic-based repellent product reportedly works well. Personal protection: long sleeves, fine screens, EPA-registered repellents.

N

1 entry

Nematodes

Not all nematodes are equal. The parasitic nematodes we sell for soil-pest control are good. Some other nematodes can physically injure humans, and some are root pests. There are perhaps more nematodes on Earth than any other multicellular organism, varying enormously in size; the plant-pestiferous ones tend to be small (much less than 1 mm to several mm) and live in soil feeding on root structures, causing disfigurement and nasty growths on both roots and above-ground plant parts. Control: root-knot, lesion and cyst nematodes are extremely difficult to control. Powerful nematicides kill the good ones too — last resort only. Three proven non-chemical levers: (1) border-plant the field with the nematicidal marigold Tagetes minutum, planted densely — commercially available by seed; keeps an uninfested plot clean. (2) Heavily enrich the soil with clean composted organic matter — makes soil conditions less favorable. (3) Granular crab-shell (chitin) products — the natural chitins make life rough on these pests. Other levers: crop rotation, resistant cultivars, biofumigant cover crops (mustard, marigold), soil solarization. Note: beneficial parasitic nematodes do NOT impact pestiferous nematodes — but they also don’t parasitize earthworms, so bad news and good.

O

1 entry

Onion Maggots

Larvae of nondescript 7 mm flies that lay eggs at the bases of allium plants. The off-white larvae tunnel into onions causing extensive damage and set rots — capable of wiping out a crop, especially in cool, moist conditions. Control: row covers exclude flies (though pupae already in soil will emerge under the cover — one of many reasons crop rotation matters in alliums). Garlic and capsicum-wax sprays applied near soil may help (though garlic may also attract these particular flies — your call). Parasitic nematodes effectively control larvae if applied at the right time, and pupae in fall and spring. Avoid manure amendments, which attract egg-laying females.

S

8 entries

Saw Flies

Tiny 5 mm flies whose larvae decimate the leaves of many tree species — despite the name, they don’t saw trees. Control: physical disruption (blasting larvae from leaves with streams of water) is technically effective but extremely impractical at scale. Parasitic nematodes work since the larvae pupate in the soil. Azadirachtin-containing neem-based products may offer foliar relief — check labels for sawfly listings before buying.

Slugs and Snails

Familiar slime-covered pests that hide under leaf litter, wood debris, rocks and pavers during daylight. Snails differ only in carrying a shell. Both range from a few mm to several cm and have a strong appetite for plants — emerging at night to chew large sections from foliage. Control: iron phosphate baits (Sluggo and equivalents) are the standard, pet- and wildlife-safe organic option — pests eat them and die, remaining pellets break down into non-damaging nutrient-containing by-products. Crushed eggshells or diatomaceous earth ringing plants can deter slugs (DE loses its punch in the moist conditions slugs prefer, however). Beer traps (pie tins with beer — they fall in and drown) are a classic small-garden tool. Copper tape/banding/mesh around containers creates an electrolytic charge with the slime that’s an effective deterrent if applied correctly and kept clean. Metaldehyde baits work but are bad environmentally.

Sow Bugs

Rolly-pollies, pill bugs — same shape, different names. About 1 cm long, blunted armadillo-like with antennae, varying from grey to brown to black with exotic blue shades. Touch them and they curl into balls. They’re actually crustaceans, not insects — living under leaf litter, plant debris, organic matter, logs and rocks. Mild pests on established plants but can overwhelm seedlings in large numbers. Control: remove harborage (debris, rocks near plantings), use diatomaceous earth as a barrier, and avoid heavy mulch right against seedlings. Saucer-of-beer traps work (similar to slugs). Sprinkle corn meal in pest areas — reportedly they eat it and can’t digest it. European quail have been used as biocontrol in conservatory settings. Trap-and-discard with hollowed-out melon rinds works for spot infestations. As a last resort, flip over logs and stones every morning and squash pests by hand.

Spittlebugs

Ever seen a plant that looks like someone spit on it? That’s spittlebug work — they produce and live in their frothy excretion. The bugs themselves are rarely seen (about 6 mm, pale yellow) and suck plant juices. In abundant numbers they may stunt plants, but the bigger issue is cosmetic — particularly on plants offered for sale, or in commonly-affected crops like strawberries. Control: hose water dislodges spittle masses and isn’t followed by yield loss. Heavy infestations on strawberries or alfalfa may warrant insecticidal soap; in most ornamental settings tolerance is the practical approach.

Spruce Budworms

Larvae of 3 cm nondescript gray moths — serious pests of conifers, tunneling into needles, twigs, buds and cones with extensive yearly damage to nurseries, Christmas-tree growers and the lumber industry. Control: Bacillus thuringiensis Kurstaki (Bt) at the right timing controls these pests well, though expect to apply a lot of product over a large stand. Trichogramma spp. moth-egg parasitoids also pressure populations — again, timing is critical. Pheromone disruption is used at industrial scale. Other non-chemical remedies don’t really exist.

Squash Bugs

Growing to 2 cm, dark-patterned shield-shaped true bugs that are very damaging to squash, melons and related cucurbits. Feeding causes shoot wilt and dieback as they drain plant sap. Control: they have no commercially produced natural enemies and resist parasitic nematodes and Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) strains. Row covers are effective if used until pollination is needed and placed over planting spaces free of leaf litter and plant debris. Hand-picking and crushing the distinctive copper-colored egg clusters on leaf undersides is effective in small plantings. Experimentally, spined soldier bugs (Podisus maculiventris) — very opportunistic — may predate nymphs. Garlic or capsicum-wax products may repel or deter feeding. Yellow trap pans can monitor adults; post-harvest vine sanitation is critical.

Squash Vine Borers

The larvae of these moths attack many cucurbits — not just squash. Red-and-gray-black moths, 3-4 cm long, lay eggs near the bases of preferred plants; the larvae burrow into stems and cause wilt and dieback. Control: row covers exclude egg-laying moths (must be removed when flowering begins for pollination). Parasitic nematodes applied at egg hatch — before larvae bore in — provide reliable control. If timing is missed, nematodes can be injected into bored holes, but this is time-consuming and only practical in small plots. Stem-slitting to physically remove the larvae is recommended in some books for small plantings. Azadirachtin (neem) gives additional control.

Strawberry Root Weevils

Black armored weevils growing to about 8 mm — major strawberry pests, also impacting cane berries, grapes, fruit trees and some conifers. Like black vine weevils, they distinctively notch leaves; larvae feed in the root zone. Control: parasitic nematodes are highly effective against the soil-dwelling larvae — same playbook as black vine weevil. Treat with nematodes PRIOR to row-covering: covers may otherwise trap weevils that started life in the soil under them. Temporary row-cover exclusion is possible in non-pollination phases. Garlic and capsicum-wax sprays may repel adults.

T

2 entries

Tarnished Plant Bugs

Very common pests of vegetable and floral gardens and field crops, widely distributed and often encountered. They’re a particular problem on strawberries, where they cause fruit abortion or disfigurement. TPB are 6-8 mm long, greenish to yellow-brown, with a mottled elongated-shield shape. A close relative, the four-lined plant bug, is distinguished by black stripes on a yellow body. Control: insidious flower bugs (Orius insidiosus) provide some biological pressure. Physical controls including kaolin clay (Surround) and vacuum collection on small plantings; trap crops (alfalfa strip-mowing) draw adults from cash crops. Row covers help exclude adults from young plantings.

Termites

Unlike carpenter ants, termites actually consume wood. Subterranean termites — those nesting in soil — are the focus here. They build distinctive gray-to-tan concrete-like surface tunnels that rise from soil to where wood begins; tunnels are visible on foundations, support posts and similar contact points. Control: preventing tunnel formation is nearly impossible. Physical barriers (metal flashing, properly installed termite shields, sand barriers) and diatomaceous earth can halt their progress. Parasitic nematodes applied around foundations are gaining merit as a non-chemical option. Act BEFORE termites start galleries in the structure — once they’re in, especially if there’s wood dampness, control becomes very difficult. For active structural infestations, professional licensed pest control is the right call.

W

3 entries

Wasps (The Stinging Kind)

There are many wasp species, and most are beneficial to humans — some so beneficial they’re sold commercially for pest control (often disguised as “parasitoids” or “mini-wasps”). The majority are innocuous and solitary. Social stinging wasps — bald-faced hornets, yellowjackets, paper wasps (roughly least-favorite to most) — sting only when threatened with modified ovipositors injecting a pain- and swelling-causing toxin. Control: if a nest must be removed, do it at night on a cool night (wasps less active): blast it with cold water from a hose — which may numb the wasps or detach the nest from its location — then knock it down with a broom (and run, but carefully in the dark). For nests in the ground protected by roots/rocks, try baiting dog food with parasitic nematodes (foraging meat-eater wasps may carry nematodes back to the brood) or drizzling honey at the nest opening to lure a skunk to rip the nest apart. Simple commercial yellowjacket traps work especially late season when wasps are after sweets. Decoy paper-wasp shapes deter nesting (territorial). Update: the “safe” cleaner Simple Green in concentrated form reportedly knocks down yellowjackets and paper wasps as fast as heavy-duty chemicals.

Webworms & Tent Caterpillars

Moths reveal their dislike of trees once again. These pests — larvae of several moth species — share a similar lifecycle: adults lay eggs, eggs hatch, larvae feed and form protective webs as they go, then pupate to adulthood. Differences: webworms overwinter as pupae in soil or leaf litter, while tent caterpillars overwinter as adults; tent caterpillars also leave the tent to feed. Webworms affect many varieties of trees, shrubs and plants; adult sizes 15 mm to 2 cm. Tent caterpillars are roughly the same size; all forms nondescript. Control: Bacillus thuringiensis Kurstaki (Bt) applied to fresh foliage where caterpillars feed is reliable for both groups. Physically removing and destroying nests when reachable reduces populations. Trichogramma spp. egg parasitoids — timing must coincide with moth-egg presence. Attracting or releasing spined soldier bugs (Podisus maculiventris) helps reduce larval populations. For webworms specifically, parasitic nematodes may attack the soil-stage pupae.

Wireworms

Larvae of click beetles — familiar to many gardeners and nurserymen, though the adult beetles are largely unknown (unremarkable, cause little plant damage). The destructive worms are orange, about 3 cm long, clearly segmented, and bore into tubers, bulbs, rhizomes and corms. Unusually, wireworms stay in the larval stage for several years before pupating — making them easier to target in one sense (always present) but harder in another (no narrow window to time intervention). Control: parasitic nematodes applied to moist soil yield satisfactory results. Trap baits using germinating wheat or carrot pieces buried in mesh bags work as both a monitoring tool and concentration point. Rotation away from grassy fallow helps. Azadirachtin (the active in neem-based products) gives additional control.

For over 30 years, Green Methods has been a leader in the production and application of beneficial organisms used in biological pest control and integrated pest management programs.

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